Wine & Dine

Restaurant Review: Tartine, French Comfort Food in Central

By: Sarah Richard

Do you ever get those days mid-week where you just crave comfort food? Carbs, cheese and desserts? Yup, I do (maybe all too frequently). So when the craving hit recently it was a good excuse to try new French restaurant Tartine. Situated right beside the Central escalator, a few million people pass it every day and we’ve probably all looked into its windows. It always looks busy and there is ALWAYS cheese. Sounds like a winner to me, so I went in to find out.

Carb overload - but we loved it!
Carb overload – but we loved it!

 

Other than obviously having a prime location, Tartine also has an amazing rooftop bar, as well as the restaurant – a great space for an otherwise crowded Central. I wasn’t going to hang around when it came to ordering and went straight for the cheese platter ($168) especially when I heard one of my favorite chefs Philippe Orrico had selected the cheeses! As expected, the board was an exquisite selection of cheeses and hit the spot right away. Then I moved on to the black truffle sandwich – warm salt butter toasts with black truffle filling ($148). I’m loving still seeing black truffle on menus and this sandwich was one tasty truffled snack.

Black Truffle Sandwich
Black Truffle Sandwich

But I still needed more, and for my second round I tried the Hachi Parmentier – slow cooked beef ragu topped with gratinee mash potato and mesclun salad ($118) which brought me back to my childhood in the U.K – delicious and comforting. Then, of course, the reason the restaurant is called what it is; Lobster and homemade bechamel tartine with lobster bisque ($148). It came in such a generous portion that the topping was nearly tumbling off!
I really enjoyed every bite of every dish at Tartine, until the dessert came. I’ve got a huge sweet-tooth, and of course by now I was full of bread and cheese. However, the dessert;Nutella with candies and oranges on brioche was a huge disappointment. Not only did the dish resemble something of a kids handiwork with candy spilt over it, the brioche was dry and completely flavourless – and with a price tag of $58 for effectively Nutella on one slice of bread – it was definitely not worth the calories. However, I probably shouldn’t have even ordered dessert anyway based on how much I had already consumed, so I still walked out happy to have found an excellent French comfort food spot in Central. Let’s just hope next time I visit they have replaced the Nutella dessert with something lighter and fresher.
Tartine now serves breakfast every Mon – Sat at 9 am onwards and brunch on Saturdays and Sundays.
2-3/F, 38 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central | 2808 0752 | www.thetartine.com

 

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