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Restaurant review: ON Dining & Kitchen, Central

By: Sarah Richard

When the ladies of Expat Living get together we like to treat ourselves – and these months inbetween Spring and Summer see us darting into the nearest new restaurant to do just that. This time round we found ourselves in a Nomad Dining venue (the team behind one of our favourites, Upper Modern Bistro). Flying high among the clouds on the 29th floor, ON Dining & Kitchen is a French concept headed by chef Philippe Orrico.

ON Dining & Kitchen
ON Dining & Kitchen

 

We arrived at what seemed like the perfect time (12 noon) and managed to grab one of the first tables – this also meant we were first to be served, which always makes for a happy foodie. Set lunches are all the rage in Hong Kong, and ON has jumped on to that trend with its twist on a modern French lunchtime menu.

Presented with both an à la carte and a set menu, we chose the latter for two reasons: because of the reasonable prices for a restaurant that has just received a Michelin star (HK$348 for two courses, or $388 for three) and because it looked too good to resist. Of course, for those of you that are familiar with Philippe’s cooking, you will know to expect nothing less than the best, and we most certainly received just that.

To start, I chose the mushroom ravioli with broccoli emulsion and argan oil, perfectly presented and with a taste to match. While truffle season is sadly coming to an end, black truffles are still out there finishing dishes off with delight, which is what prompted my second course choice of silver cod, Parma ham, white beans, and black truffle. The cod was fluffy and only lightly seasoned to bring out the amazing black truffle flavour; it’s been a long time since I’ve had a faultless fish dish like this. The ricotta parfait with red fruits and beriolette sorbet looked almost too good to eat, though while it tasted great and the red fruit flavours were powerful, it lacked a little substance. Having eyed up my colleague’s chocolate souffle tart, I would definitely choose that next time.

where to eat in hong kong
Just LOOK at that chocolate cake!

 

This is a beautifully presented restaurant with epic views and top-quality service. I can’t say I have ever had a bad experience in any of Philippe’s restaurants (and I regard Upper Modern Bistro as one of the best French eateries in Hong Kong). ON certainly lives up to its older sibling, yet with the added extra of allowing you to dine among the clouds. And, while the food and service at lunch are impeccable, and the set menu one of the better ones we’ve tried, I can’t help but love ON at night too – watching the city lights with a Negroni in hand is, for me, what living in this place is all about.

Must-try dish: Don’t miss the cheese, hand-picked by fromagier Jeremy Evrard

 

Head on over to our Wine & Dine page for more recommendations on restaurants in Hong Kong

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