Bars & Restaurants Wine & Dine

Review: authentic French bistro fare at Metropolitain

By: Wendy Chan

I’ve been forward to sampling the menu at Metropolitain, known for its authentic French bistro fare for a while now, so when a cold, gloomy night arose I went straight along. Once away from the cool evening air, we settled ourselves in a booth and were greeted by a warm atmosphere with the perfect combination of cosy lighting, a friendly open kitchen, and a warm basket of dense bread.

Metropolitain in Sai Ying Pun
Metropolitain in Sai Ying Pun

Our meal began with seared scallops with creamy leeks (HK$148), which were browned, succulent scallops nestled on a bed of leek puree, topped with crispy shavings of fried leeks. The puree was creamy but not overly rich, and the slight dash of mild spice added a depth of flavour to the dish. The scallops themselves were liberally seasoned and seared, and the crunch from the fried leeks was an inviting complement to their texture.

Salmon and beef tartare duo on toasts ($138) followed – a beautifully presented, colourful dish of generously sized morsels on a pesto-lined platter. Each slice of toast was nice and thin, crispy but not oily, and able to hold up the heaping mounds of the mix, all individually garnished with a sprig of parsley. The flavours were wonderfully complex, making this a refreshing and moreish appetiser.

Metropolitain lobster linguini
The delicious lobster linguini

The first of our two mains was lobster linguine ($248), plated in a delectable buttery sauce akin to a lobster bisque, with a highly intense flavour. Together with the al dente pasta, finely chopped green garnish, and lobster tail atop, this was a hearty dish in warm, bright colours.

Pan-fried veal rump served with vegetables and morels sauce ($178) is an aromatic dish whose fragrance of morel mushroom beckoned us to immediately dig in. Chef Frank explained to us the veal is pan-fried with smoked ham to impart a smoky flavour to the meat, which was firm, but very tender. The morel mushrooms were substantially sized, and each mushroom was like a sponge soaking up the palatable sauce. The mix of vegetables was a big hit for me, as they were all perfectly cooked to retain their individual, distinct tastes. The sweetness of the carrots, mildness of the zucchini and subtle crispness of the green beans, all combined with the morel sauce in a fantastic kind of gourmet stew.

Yum... The Tarte Tatin Metropolitain
Tarte tatin

Feeling very satisfied, we rounded off our meal with tarte Tatin ($88). The apples were stewed to softness in a lovely caramel sauce, served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream drizzled with caramel and dusted with cocoa powder. While we had resigned ourselves to the fact we had eaten too much and could fit no more, the classic combination of sweet, warm fruit and cold ice cream in the cosiness of the restaurant proved me wrong – I practically devoured the whole plate by myself. That’s okay, though – isn’t the word “dessert” derived from desservir, as in “clear the table”? In a place like Metropolitain, I could do that every time!

Must try dish: Pan-fried veal rump served with vegetables and morels sauce

Metropolitain

G/F, 46 High Street, Sai Ying Pun

6271 6102 | french-creations.com

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