By: Karl Woodbury
Gordon Ramsay has brought a touch of London pub dining to Hong Kong with London House and, after sampling the scrumptious delights on offer, we certainly think he’s worthy of the F-word: fabulous!
We were warmly greeted by London House’s courteous manager, Andrew Curtis who showed us to our table on the delightful first-floor terrace. The lunch menu (a set menu of two courses) looked beautifully balanced and, as with any Gordon Ramsay restaurant, expectations were extremely high.
Sure enough, the starters were incredible: a creamy, earthy cauliflower soup with black truffle toast and firm little florets adding welcome texture; silky and moreish roasted onion and barramundi pâté; and a grilled radicchio and pear salad that hit all the right notes – bitter, sweet, nutty and tangy.
Our three main courses also packed a powerful punch, worthy of the man himself. Chicken pie with autumn vegetables was creamy and tender under a delightfully crisp puff-pastry lid; sautéed sea bass with herbed potatoes and spinach cream was colourful and inviting, the plump fillets and crispy skin simply outstanding; and, best of all, the braised lamb shoulder with cannellini beans and lamb jus was intense and deeply satisfying, the beans having soaked up all the lamby goodness and lightly steamed Chinese broccoli proving a welcome addition to the dish.
Sitting back with full and happy tummies, we should’ve just savoured the moment but gluttony got the better of us on seeing the dessert menu. It was impossible to pick a winner the Eton mess, with its crunchy meringue, strawberries, sauce and whipped cream; sweet, nostalgia-inducing sticky toffee pudding; and comforting bread-and-butter pudding with the interesting addition of coffee ice cream.
As well as the set lunch menu, which changes fortnightly, there are a handful of other British classics on offer. After the outstanding three courses we had wolfed down, we just had to return the following night! Success again: fish and chips with crushed peas and tartar sauce was a timely reminder that the best of British cooking has its rightful place up there on the world culinary map; traditional shepherd’s pie was a soothing trip down memory lane; bangers and mash hit the spot; and the selections from the grill were of the highest order.
There is nothing better than unwinding with a couple of British ales and comfort food of the highest quality. Highest expectations were comfortably seen off with outstanding cookery. Sometimes world-renowned chefs put their name to a restaurant but the results can be disappointing. Nothing could be further from the truth with Gordon Ramsay’s London House.
Must-try dish: It’s Gordon Ramsay, so take your pick!
G5 Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Road, Kowloon
Read more about Gordon Ramsay at the opening of London House here