Wondering which neighbourhood in Hong Kong you should live in? It’s always good to talk to people living there! In our regular Street Talk feature, we get the inside scoop from residents of different areas. Here, we chat to Henrietta Hutchings who for years has enjoyed Sai Kung village life in Hong Kong.
About Henrietta
From: England – a small fishing village in Beer, Devon that has a fine history of smuggling stretching back to the 1600s, full of salty sea dogs.
Time in Hong Kong: 21 years.
Occupation: I have two jobs. I import and sell small-batch Italian wines online, and I write technical manuals for electronics products. The wet job (wine) balances the dry job (technical writing)!
Hong Kong neighbourhood: Sai Kung
About Living in Sai Kung Village
You chose this area because… Honestly, it’s the best in Hong Kong. I’m a small village, rural girl by heart who grew up by the sea and for many years lived on a sailing boat here in HK. To me, Sai Kung feels like a friendly village that is surrounded by ocean, wonderful islands, beaches and nature – and, on top of that, “the big smoke” (HK Island!) is only 30 minutes or so away for when you need a city fix. The city is on your doorstep but not in your face.
When I travel out of the city and reach the start of Sai Kung, I always feel a bit lighter, with a sense of “I’m nearly home” in the peace and quiet of the area. As a town for long-term residents, SK is a bit like the sitcom bar Cheers. It’s a place where “everyone knows your name” and you can’t go into town without bumping into at least a few people you know.
Transport options in your suburb include… Sai Kung is a 15-minute bus or taxi ride to an MTR station and then it’s super easy to travel anywhere in Hong Kong.
When you walk out of your house, the first thing you see is… Shelter Cove Bay – the one with all the boats in it that you see when you drive into Sai Kung.
The closest store to your front door is… Fusion.
The unofficial uniform of your suburb is… Casual, chilled and laid-back. Shorts, t-shirts and sandals are the neigh order of the day.
If a celebrity moves in, it would likely be… A canto movie star. There’s a house nearby on the waterfront in Shelter Cove where you regularly see film crews. This would be the film star’s house; modern design, uber chic, with sea views.
When you’re in need of a dose of culture you… Visit the local Tin Hau Temple, dine out at a dai pai dong with outside seating to eat local food and people-watch. People from all parts of Hong Kong and all walks of life visit Sai Kung. A walk around the old town of Sai Kung is a way to see the old and new parts of HK culture jostling to keep their place.
A mandatory stop for taking out of town guests is… Get out on the water, show off the beautiful islands around Sai Kung, including some with white sand beaches, and go for a long, lazy seafood lunch at Yau Ley. This is a side of HK many people don’t get to see when they visit and even don’t know it exists.
A common myth about your area is… It’s a long way to Central!
If you wake up at night it’s usually because of… A thunderstorm or the birds noisily chatting outside the balcony, which means I’ve probably overslept my alarm!
A massive late-night rager in your suburb involves… A trip to The Boozer. Here, the well-known hosts Dean and Hilda will keep those shots coming, serve up the tunes and keep you entertained long past your intended bedtime!
Highlights of your neighbourhood in Hong Kong
Your hands-down favourite Sai Kung food joint is… For food, it’s the Chinese restaurant on the corner next to the basketball courts, VilaVilla – spicy Hunan cuisine. Love the sizzling chilli beef and eggplant with green beans, yuuuuuummmmm. For chilled drinks and nibbles, Casa.
You won’t find better local dishes than… The handmade dumpling shop in the old town – Man Tsai Kee Noodles. You often see them making the dumplings by hand. There’s a fabulous variety and they’re all very, very tasty.
The strangest thing you’ve seen in your Sai Kung neighbourhood is… The fact that the dogs are better dressed than their owners. And sometimes they’re even sat at a dining table with a napkin on!
The guiltiest local pleasure is… Skipping out of work and having a massage midweek at Zone. Even though I work for myself, it still feels deliciously naughty to have a massage skive.
One thing you’d never change is… The friendliness of the local shopkeepers. You can actually smile your way around Sai Kung. I went away for a year and when I came back many of the shopkeepers welcomed me back. One shopkeeper saw me walking by and ran out and gave me a big hug (choosing to speak Cantonese not English in the excitement of the moment so I didn’t understand too much!). I was completely blown away and walked off with a big grin.
The city gives you $5 million to soup up your area; you… Run a campaign to keep our waters clean and plastic free. Educate the young, incentivise the old to reduce their waste, and stop net fishing.
Do you love your neighbourhood?
Share it with others – just email us at info@expatliving.hk with “Street Talk” in the subject line. Include your name and street, and we’ll be in touch. expatliving.hk
This article first appeared in the Summer 2024 issue of Expat Living magazine. Subscribe now so you never miss an issue!
