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Commissary: classics hit the spot

By: Melissa Stevens

There’s something about SoCal cuisine that really hits the spot – you would be hard-pressed to find someone who doesn’t love a serve of ribs, fried chicken or a good ol’ cheeseburger. Commissary, which opened its doors late last year in Admiralty’s swanky Pacific Place, ticks all those boxes and more with its Southern Californian menu, which also features items such as clam chowder, fish tacos, and shrimp and grits.

A Southern fried chicken sandwich with slaw from Commissary is hard to beat
A Southern fried chicken sandwich with slaw from Commissary is hard to beat

The restaurant concept, a venture between JIA Group founder Yenn Wong and Morgan McClone of Belles Hot Chicken in Melbourne and Sydney, shows the experience of the operators – a contemporary fit-out and a sense of fun permeate. There is plenty on the menu to keep classic SoCal food fans happy – both the southern fried chicken sandwich with fries (HK$198) and the half-serve of St Louis pork ribs, served with coleslaw and grilled corn ($268), were filling and satisfying.

St Louis pork ribs are a popular classic at Commissary
St Louis pork ribs are a popular classic at Commissary

But there is also a diversity in Commissary’s menu, which shows that this is more than a one-note venue. They have a range of lighter dishes, and were even able to accommodate a vegetarian request with a veggie pasta ($158). Deliciously decadent desserts (both $68) in the form of a tres leches cake with berries and custard cream, and apple fried pie and vanilla ice cream rounded out the meal nicely.

The menu highlights for me, however, came with the retro cool touch of having starters of devilled eggs ($48) and sardines on toast ($58) – fun and funky dishes that take you back to the cocktail parties your parents might have hosted.

4/F, Pacific Place, Admiralty

2602 0707 | commissary.hk

This article first appeared in the Apr/May edition of Expat Living magazine. Subscribe now so you never miss an issue.

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